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J. Kenji López-Alt demonstrates two different quick stovetop macaroni and cheese recipes: his ultra-simple 3-ingredient version utilizing starch-rich pasta water and evaporated milk, and Deb Perelman's (Smitten Kitchen) rich bechamel-based Mornay style Mac and Cheese with Parmesan.
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[Kenji's Version] Cook pasta in barely enough cold water in a skillet to concentrate the starch. → [Kenji's Version] Once the water is mostly absorbed, add evaporated milk, cheddar cheese, and stir off the heat until creamy. → [Deb's Version] Boil and drain pasta, then cook butter and flour together to create a light roux. → [Deb's Version] Whisk in cold milk all at once, season with pepper and salt, and stir in Parmesan off the heat. → [Deb's Version] Mix the cooked pasta back into the cheese sauce, adjusting the consistency with a splash of milk.
[Kenji's Version] Cook pasta in barely enough cold water in a skillet to concentrate the starch. → [Kenji's Version] Once the water is mostly absorbed, add evaporated milk, cheddar cheese, and stir off the heat until creamy. → [Deb's Version] Boil and drain pasta, then cook butter and flour together to create a light roux. → [Deb's Version] Whisk in cold milk all at once, season with pepper and salt, and stir in Parmesan off the heat. → [Deb's Version] Mix the cooked pasta back into the cheese sauce, adjusting the consistency with a splash of milk.
J. Kenji López-Alt demonstrates two different quick stovetop macaroni and cheese recipes: his ultra-simple 3-ingredient version utilizing starch-rich pasta water and evaporated milk, and Deb Perelman's (Smitten Kitchen) rich bechamel-based Mornay style Mac and Cheese with Parmesan.
[Kenji's Mac & Cheese] Add 6 oz of macaroni pasta into a wide skillet.
[Kenji's Mac & Cheese] Pour in cold water, using just enough to barely cover the dry pasta.
[Kenji's Mac & Cheese] Place the skillet on high heat and bring it to a boil. Add a small pinch of salt.
[Kenji's Mac & Cheese] Move the boiling skillet to a side burner. Continue to cook on medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is nearly cooked through and the water has almost completely reduced to a thick, starchy glaze.
[Deb's Mac & Cheese] In a separate pot, boil 4 oz of macaroni pasta in salted water until cooked, then drain and set aside.
Using evaporated milk is crucial for Kenji's 3-ingredient recipe; its high concentration of milk proteins acts as a natural emulsifier, preventing the cheese sauce from breaking or turning greasy.
For Kenji's method, starting with cold water and using a minimal amount concentrates the starches released from the pasta, which helps thicken and bind the cheese sauce.
For Deb's method, adding cold milk all at once to a hot roux prevents lumps more reliably than adding warm milk slowly, provided you whisk immediately.
Always melt cheese off the heat or over very low heat. High heat can tighten the cheese proteins, leading to a gritty or broken sauce.
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